15 stories behind the ink – tattoos from awesome travellers

Have you ever noticed that a lot of travellers have tattoos? I was standing on a train recently in Bangkok with a lot of other travel bloggers, and it being a hot country we were all showing a lot of skin – and a lot of tattoos. It occurred to me that travellers make up a very high percentage of the tattooed population. And so, I asked some fellow travel bloggers to share the stories behind the things we’ve got inked while travelling in far off lands. Incidentally, we’re all vegan travellers and you can read about why some tattoos aren’t vegan here. For my last tattoo (the bird) it was totally spontaneous so I connected to their wifi and did a quick Google of the ink they use. Luckily, it was vegan. He pretty much freehanded it so the transfer paper wasn’t an issue. And I carry a little pot of Lush ultra balm (Lush Ultrabalm Body Balm 1.5oz Tin which is lip balm, chapped hands balm, and excellent spontaneous vegan tattoo aftercare. It lasts forever, too (I used it for both of mine and still have 1/3rd left – enough for my next one?). On with the stories.

Amélie – Mostly Amélie

Durian fruit tattoo

I wasn’t going to get a travel tattoo because I think they can sometimes be a little tacky, but I have developed such an obsession with durian fruit while in Thailand that I decided to go ahead and get one tattooed on my leg. The meaning goes beyond the simple fact that I am passionate about the stinky fruit: I would say it’s a bit of a metaphor for the quest for new and exotic things I am on when exploring new countries. And the crown and “hail to the king” writing is a bit of a cheeky double sense wink to what is called the “king of fruits” and the country where I got the tattoo, Thailand and its beloved king.

Amélie is a hungry fun-loving vegan Canadian graphic designer and travel writer who’s ditched the 9 to 5 lifestyle in favor of something that lets her roam the world at her own will and follow her ever itchy feet. She is currently cycling between Istanbul and Berlin. Follow her adventures on her blog Mostly Amélie. You can also catch her on Facebook.

Randi – Veggie Visa and Just a Pack

Watercolour travel tattoo

Watercolour travel tattoo

I remember admiring Michael’s tattoo while sitting across a table from him the first time we met. It was the first one I had seen in this style and it was magnificent. The colors, the meaning, even the fact that he got it in Nicaragua made me envious.

Nearly a year later, I found myself in the same small surf town with Michael where he got his sunset backpacker tattoo. I was constantly surrounded by people with fresh ink from the same artist, Guy Mark.

I knew I wanted one of Guy’s incredible watercolor tattoos but couldn’t decide on the subject. For days I wrestled with different ideas but in the end was drawn to the splatter marks that appeared as an accent on so many of his tattoos.

About an hour before my appointment I decided I would ask Guy to design an abstract piece for me that loosely represented my intense connection to, and love for, water.

Randi is the co-founder of the travel website Just a Pack and Veggie Visa. She is a vegan, loves to cook, and is happiest when lying on a beach in a foreign country.

Facebook: Just a Pack & Veggie Visa

Twitter: Just a Pack & Veggie Visa

herbivore clothing co elephant tattoo

HERBIVORE CLOTHING CO. ELEPHANT TATTOO
Tattoo Charlies in Louisville, KY

In the fall of 2011 I set out on what turned into a pretty epic adventure. I had quit my job earlier that year, got rid of almost everything I owned, and moved into a renovated Chevy van. My Dad helped build a bed in the back of it and everything! The goal was to try and eat at every vegan restaurant in the United States.

About six months into the journey I landed in Louisville, Kentucky. I’d discovered a lovely coffee shop offering a variety of vegan treats, called Highland Coffee, on Bardstown Road.

Looking around the coffee shop I realized I was about 10 tattoos short of “fitting in.” Almost everyone around me was covered and I had but one wee vegan “V” on my left wrist at the time. So, I sent out a tweet about how I needed some more ink, in order to fit in. Seconds later I received a reply from @TattooCharlies. It read, “@wtfveganfood We can help! 39 years of quality in Louisville, cruelty free inks too! No animal ingredients or testing.” I loved this for many reasons but mostly that a business took the initiative not only to keep an eye out for potential client opportunities, but to start the conversation on a note that made it clear that they “get me.” Amazing!

After a few more tweets we moved our chat to email. I learned that the shop owner had recently become vegan, as did his family, and before I knew it he’d invited me in to get a tattoo.

I hadn’t exactly planned ahead for this so when I walked in on the day of my appointment I peered down at my shirt, looked up at the artist and said, “Could you put this on my arm?” I was wearing a grey fitted tee from the Herbivore Clothing Company. It had a picture of an adorable, bubbly elephant on it that read, “I’m vegan and I love you.”
About 30 minutes later I had my first forearm tattoo as well as a horseshoe on my right wrist.
Van travel tattoos
GERTY THE VAN TATTOO
Scapegoat in Portland, Oregon

My dear friend George (@linchipin on Instagram) is a fellow vegan foodie traveler. We first met a couple of years ago when he’d arranged a vegan lunch for some local San Fran vegans, when I’d arrived in the area during my road trip. After the meal a few of us walked across and back, over the Golden Gate Bridge, then went out for some donuts. It was an awesome day! George and I stayed in touch thereafter and would occasionally chat online about boys and food (of course).

We had a few opportunities to hangout over the years, one of which was only about a month ago when George met me in Portland, Oregon. I was there on book tour and he came out for the food and to finally get our matching tattoos! We’d been talking about getting matching “Gerty” tattoos ever since George finished reading my memoir, Will Travel for Vegan Food. He said he’d felt inspired by the journey and wanted to get a tattoo of my road trip van (ie, Gerty – short for Gertrude).

So, we planned ahead for my arrival in Portland and each booked appointments with our favorite artists at Scapegoat Tattoo; a vegan owned and operated shop on Stark St. in Portland, Oregon.

I started the day with some folks from the Farm Animal Rights Movement (FARM), protesting a local dairy company, then met up with George to grab some food from Homegrown Smoker, Back to Eden, and Sweetpea Bakery, before heading to Scapegoat. I got my piece done by Aron Dubois (a black outline of the van, hand drawn rendering by artist Jacki Graziano)​ and George’s was done by John Wilson (his was based on Jacki’s art as well, and then John added in some color and accent imagery).

Even though Gerty is no longer with me she will now forever be “with” me, carrying me through life’s adventures, as she’d once done during my “Will Travel for Vegan Food” cross country road trip. D’aww.

'Limitless' tattoo in Sanskrit

SANSKRIT TATTOO
No Coast Tattoo in Fargo, ND

Just before I left for my road trip my mom gifted me a t-shirt that, hidden on the *inside* bottom seam, contained the mantra, “I am limitless.” This phrase stuck with me and has very much become how my family, friends, and adventures have made me feel; as I nomad around, living out my wildest and most passion-driven dreams.

Post road trip I landed in Chicago for a few months before heading to Fargo to visit North Dakota and check it off my bucket as I only had 2 states in the country left to visit, at the time. As I was prepping to leave Chicago I had a sudden urge to finally get this piece of art that I’d been thinking about for a few years (since I got that shirt from my Mom). Since I ran out of time to plan ahead, I made an agreement with myself while on the flight out to Fargo: ‘If there happens to be a tattoo shop located across the street from whatever place turns out to be my favorite coffeehouse, only then would I commit to getting the tattoo.’

After the third or fourth day in a row at Atomic Coffee, on Broadway, I happened to notice a tattoo parlor…you guessed it, immediately across the street from the coffeehouse. THE BEST PART—I walk up to order a soy mocha latte and the woman behind the counter says, “You know, you look a lot like this vegan chick I follow on Instagram. She travels around for vegan food.” We have a good laugh, I find out she’s vegan, AND she ( @ramblinfever_ ) just so happens to be a tattoo apprentice at the shop located… yep, just across the street.

And so it goes (in Sanskrit): “Limitless.”

Kristin Lajeunesse is the author of Will Travel for Vegan Food: A Young Woman’s Solo Van-Dwelling Mission to Break Free, Find Food, and Make Love. In 2011, Kristin quit her job and moved into a renovated van in an effort to eat at and write about every vegan restaurant in the United States. Find out what she’s eating now on Facebook.

Cristina Luisa – Chronicles of a Travel Addict

Argentinian tattoo

GEOMETRIC DESIGN 
Buenos Aires, Argentina

The first tattoo I got while traveling was in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Eight months beforehand, I’d bought a one-way ticket to EZE and swore I’d never return to the U.S. But after living in Argentina and backpacking through five other countries, my pockets were empty and I decided to return. Finding myself drastically changed from my time in South America, I wanted something permanent to always remind me of all that I had discovered. And so, two nights before my northward flight, my Ecuadorian friend and I decided we’d get tattoos together. I had been pondering this ink for months, and I still was at a loss as to how to put all of my experiences into one little tattoo. I thought of the Incan and indigenous cultures in South America and their belief in the power of four- a perfectly balanced number representative of the sacred animals, elements, and cardinal points. Overestimating my rusty artistic abilities (I had drawn my first tattoo, after all!), I drew a square- a symbol of strength and solidity. I then drew another square within, which would be colored purple to represent the third eye chakra. This would help me to see clearly and maintain my passion for travel when I returned to the United States. Coincidentally, my friend stuck with the geometric theme and got a small dot. I’ve debated on removing this tattoo, as it’s not the hottest piece of ink, but I can’t bear to erase the reminder of my beginnings as a traveler.

Kuching Iban tribal tattoo

IBAN TRIBAL OWL 
Headhunter Studio – Kuching, Borneo

Tap, tap, tap. Tap, tap, tap. I lay on a bamboo mat in Kuching, with one man stretching the skin on my back and the other nailing ink along my spine. I had just landed in Borneo – a land I never dreamed I’d actually visit- a few hours prior and here I was, already getting inked. After serendipitously discovering Headhunter Tattoo Studio, I met Ernesto Kalum, a world-renowned artist, and jumped at the chance to get a traditional Iban tribal tattoo. Ernesto designed an intricate owl for me, representing protection, wisdom, freedom, and solitary power. The nail-tipped bamboo repeatedly submerged the ink into my skin for over three hours. There was no comparing the pain this traditional method set upon me with that of a mechanized needle. I reminded myself to breathe. Three quarters of the way through, I couldn’t take it anymore and needed pause. The owl was headless, and I seriously contemplated leaving it like that. But I’m not one to surrender. 45 painful minutes later, skin freshly swollen, the results were breathtaking. I’d endured this unexpected rite of passage, and my Iban owl will forever remind me of the tenacity and bravery I possess.

Dia de los Muertos Gato tattoo

DIA DE LOS MUERTOS GATO
Martian Arts Tattoo Studio – Portland, Oregon

 

In 2013, I went through a major life change, propelling me to finally to take a road trip from the Bay Area, California, up to the Pacific Northwest, hitting up Portland, Oregon; Seattle, Washington; and Vancouver, BC, Canada. I’d been to Seattle once before, but Portland and Vancouver were completely new territory. For some mysterious, cosmic reason, I knew I’d eventually move to Portland before ever stepping on its green city streets. Once I arrived, I was equally drawn into Martian Arts Tattoo Studio’s colorful Victorian lair, seating myself and preparing for two new tattoos done by Joanne. This incredibly talented woman, and her husband Jerry- also a brilliant tattoo artist- would eventually become my good friends as I settled into Southeast Portland. Flash forward to Halloween 2014, and I once again felt the rush of the needle buzzing into my skin. I lay on my stomach in a meditative state as Joanne etched a Day of the Dead cat calavera into my calf. This was partly an homage to my Mexican roots, but more so a dedication to my cat Cuddles, who grew with me through the awkward preteen years until my carefree post-college years. She was my soul mate, my best friend, and is still very much alive in my dreams. And now, her memory has manifested into gorgeous artwork that will be close to me, no matter where I go.

Cristina Luisa is a travel writer, photographer, and freelancer with a passion for animal rights and all things Latin America. Follow her journey on Chronicles of a Travel Addict.

Amelia – Plant-Powered Nomad

Japanese Mandala tattoo

THREE MANDALAS 
Shi Ryu Doh – Tokyo, Japan
I had known I wanted a tattoo on my back for a long time, and being a traveller it seemed logical to get one while I was in a different country. When I moved to Taiwan I did a Google search for ‘tattoo artists in Japan’, and that led me to Shi Ryu Doh. The moment I saw his work I knew I needed to something by him, as he specialised in mandalas. Mandalas are something I’ve always loved: the geometry, the symmetry, how grounding they are. Traditionally they also represent journey through life, and so it seemed appropriate that I got them at the start of the biggest journey I’ve been on so far. A year after first finding the artist I flew to Tokyo, Japan, having quit my job and decided to travel full time, and spent two days being tattooed by the artist, Ron. His studio was tiny and full of beautiful Balinese (mainly) artwork, collected on his travels.

Thailand watercolour bird tattoo

WATERCOLOUR BIRD
Forever Tattoo – Chiang Mai, Thailand

I’ve wanted a watercolour bird for years, more so since I worked in the Amazon doing bird research and working with them. I admired a friend’s tattoos in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and asked if she’d got any here. She told me three of them were from a studio right by our guesthouse, and so I decided to wander in and have a look. “I want a bird, coming out of lots of colour, and it needs to be a bird that isn’t recognisable as one type of bird,” I told the man behind the desk. “You’ll have to show me what you mean,” he told me, looking confused. I pulled up my favourite watercolour artist, and scrolled down the images until I found a bird. “Like that, but with a longer tail, and more colours,” I said. The artist did it in his style, filling the colour in totally freehand, and this is what I came out with two hours later. It couldn’t be more perfect: it has colour, movement, and symbolises freedom.

After 5 years of flirting with travel I became fully nomadic when I quit my job in Taiwan in July 2015. Now I travel the world doing Yoga and eating delicious vegan food. Follow the links on the right to find all my social media doodads.

Giselle and Cody – Mindful Wanderlust

Cody

Animal rights tattoo

NITNOI 
Jodi – Chiang Mai, Thailand
During our time at Save Elephant Foundation in Chiang Mai, Thailand, we met a solitary little dog named Nit Noi, who would roam the park as a lone wolf, and really didn’t like people touching her. She wore a red ribbon around her neck for this reason, to alert people not to come too close as she would growl or possibly bite.
While working at the dog clinic, Nit Noi came in as a patient and was diagnosed with a contagious canine venereal cancer. She had to stay in the clinic for quite a few months; and during that time, Giselle, and I cared for her, bringing Nit Noi in and out of the clinic, comforting her, and spending time with her.
Nit Noi grew to trust us. Months later her cancer was cured, and she was able to roam freely again around the park. The one thing that changed was her willingness to interact with us. She would always approach us, and I would give her belly rubs, while people would gasp and tell me to be careful as she was one of the dogs with a red ribbon. I spent a lot of evenings just giving Nit Noi love, and she would follow us around the park when we would go on elephant walks with our friend Jodi. I became very connected to Nit Noi, and decided to get a tattoo of her by Jodi.
And there was no better person to give me this tattoo, as Jodi would carry Nit Noi around as a little puppy around the park. Nit Noi is now passed, so this tattoo is especially meaningful.
Meat is murder tattoo
MEAT IS MURDER
Jodi – Chiang Mai, Thailand
This little tattoo is self explanatory. What makes it special, is that Jodi’s 8 year old son Raki drew it up, and Jodi tattooed it on me.
Giselle

Nepalese rose tattoo

ROSE 
French Artist – Kathmandu, Nepal
The traditional rose on my hand is an especially significant tattoo to me although I had never desired to get my hand tattooed until that day. 

Cody and I were in Kathmandu, Nepal having some lunch when two men approached us and asked if we were there for the Nepal tattoo convention.

We told them that we were not, but that we would check it out, and so we did.
I had absolutely no intentions of getting tattooed at the convention but something came over me after seeing so much beautiful work that day that I decided to get my hand done by a French artist. I knew that getting my hand done might deter someone from hiring me in the future, but it was at that moment that I had decided that I would live my life exactly as I wanted to-freely, and with no regrets, and I have been doing that ever since. The rose on my hand represents freedom, and living my life for myself, free from the expectations of others.
Thailand cat paw tattoo
OWL 
Good Times Tattoo, Jason – Saskatoon, Canada
During our many times in Thailand, Cody and I lived and worked at PAWS in Bangkok for 2 months, and fell in love with a little one eyed street cat named Owl who was rescued by PAWS. We had no choice but to adopt her and take her back home with us to Ontario where she had a wonderful life at my mom’s place with a green backyard where she played and rolled around in the warm sun. We spent a lot of time with Owl, and got to learn that she was a sweeter cat than we had even known in Bangkok.
Cody and I moved to Saskatoon for 5 months this past July and said goodbye to Owl for a while. Sadly, two months into our living here, my mom contacted me to tell me that Owl was very ill.
I flew home immediately to be with her, to give her fluids, and make her comfortable until the day we had to say goodbye. It was extremely painful to see her go, as she was such an affectionate cat who was so full of life.
As soon as I flew back to Saskatoon, our good friend Jason tattooed this memorial of Owl’s little paw reaching down from a cloud on my leg.
I love this piece, as every time i see it, it reminds me of our lovely Owl.
Spider tattoo Thailand
SPIDER 
Lady Luck – Koh Lanta, Thailand
I think by now you’ll have noticed that I adore nature, and all of the creatures that help it to thrive.

While volunteering at Lanta Animal Welfare on Koh Lanta, Thailand, Cody and I found a very talented artist named Bezt, at a great professional shop on the island named Lady Luck. I literally just chose this beautiful spider out of Bezt’s book of art, and let him choose the colours for the design. There is no deep meaning to it. I just love the bold traditional design, and nature, and all of the creepy crawlies.

Giselle and Cody started traveling full-time in 2012, and through Mindful Wanderlust the couple shares slow travel stories, great cruelty free food, cultural experiences, animal rights, education, musings on life, and colorful travel videos. Keep up with them on Facebook.

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Travel has stopped me buying clothes

I had a realisation a few days ago: travel has stopped me buying clothes. Well, almost. I haven’t bought clothes from a shop in over a year. Not Zara, not H&M, not Primark. I haven’t shopped online, and no Asos delivery boxes have arrived at my door. I have almost completely stopped buying clothes.

And yet I like my minimal travel wardrobe more than ever.

Free clothes when travelling

Top given to me by a friend who was bored of it, skirt $1 from a sale.

When I left my apartment in Scotland a year and a half ago, I was shocked at how many clothes I had. This was partly to do with becoming vegan, starting to work out and losing a lot of weight, around 40 pounds. None of my clothes fit me anymore. Before that I had been a bit up and down, and had a varying wardrobe which spanned across several dress sizes. Losing those 40lbs made everything I owned fall straight off me. I was smaller than I had been since I was about fourteen. There was only one thing to do: buy a whole new wardrobe.

And then I lost a little bit more weight.

And now I had every size of clothing between a UK 6-8 and a UK 14. But throwing the large ones out seemed like tempting fate.

Why you should stop buying new clothes

Still wondering “should I stop buying new clothes?”

Long story short, I think I donated around 5 big black binbags of clothing to charity shops. I had clothes coming out of every storage area  in my flat, some hardly worn. And I made a vow: never again would I buy this much clothing.

We all know about sweatshops, but the drain on our planet’s resources is also extreme in the production of clothing. And as it’s easy to put sweatshops in the ‘out of sight, out of mind’ area of your brain, here are some short videos on that.

Ethical consumerism is like a rabbit hole. Once you go down it, it’s never-ending and you can’t climb out. Our presence is hurting something, or someone. Maybe it’s because I’m travelling through countries with a higher level of poverty, though, that it’s simply not as easy anymore to put where my clothes are made at the back of my mind. Or maybe it’s that combined with being more budget conscious, and having very little room in my bag. Whatever the reason, I’ve done a little digging for some more facts.

“Because women make up 85 to 90% of sweatshop workers, some employers force them to take birth control and routine pregnancy tests to avoid supporting maternity leave or providing appropriate health benefits.”*

I recently stopped taking birth control because it was doing too many weird things to my body. Despite adjusting to normal hormones causing me to now cry in public a lot, I feel much better off without it. I can’t imagine being forced to take it, and I’m guessing that the consequences of a positive pregnancy test for these women aren’t pleasant. I wonder how many dangerous and life threatening abortions take place because they don’t want to lose their source of income?

“A study showed that doubling the salary of sweatshop workers would only increase the consumer cost of an item by 1.8%, while consumers would be willing to pay 15% more to know a product did not come from a sweatshop.”*

I’ve heard this one before, and it’s ridiculous. But the reality is that all the high street brands, ethical and non-ethical, are still causing a drain on our planet (see lovely colourful infographic to your left).

“In developing countries, an estimated 168 million children ages 5 to 14 are forced to work.”* That’s more than the entire population of Russia (146 million incl. Crimea).

So how am I getting clothes?

When I backpacked for the first time in 2010, I made the common mistake of buying a new wardrobe of ‘functional’ clothes. I’ve met very few people who wake up and think “what will I wear this morning? I know, the khaki pants, they’re just so functional.” These clothes got littered around various hostels as I got more and more bored with them, and my outfit became one that, except the t-shirts, was picked up around South America: a little red skort, two pairs of black leggings, a scarf, 3 t-shirts, a fleece, a black maxi dress. That is it. That lasted me for a little over a month. And so my inner minimalist was born… until I went back to the UK and developed a Russian doll clothes collection of every size out there.

Travel wardrobe for South America

One of two outfits I owned in Colombia

That was four years ago. I now live comfortably out of a backpack, and have a wardrobe that stays reasonably fresh and interesting for me. I have my almost perfect minimal travel wardrobe. I spend very little money on clothes, and I like everything I own. Here’s how:

1. If you really need something new, find a local maker. In Chiang Mai I met a French lady who designs and makes Yoga clothes. The clothes are made by a lovely Thai lady who you can watch sewing and laughing with her friends. They don’t cost the earth, in money or in how they’re made.

2. When you’re bored, swap clothes with someone else. Most female backpackers are in a similar situation of only having a small number of clothes. If someone compliments something you’re wearing and you don’t feel that way about it anymore, why not give it to them? Some of my favourite items are from when this happened to me, like the pants in this picture.

Swap clothes with others when you travel

Swap clothes with others when you travel

3. Check hostels. Most usually have a pile of old clothes that people have got bored of and left behind. My friend worked in a hostel in Malaysia for a while when she run out of money, and every time we complimented something she was wearing the answer was the same. “It’s from the hostel.”

Second hand clothes when travelling

Green top from the animal charity sale, and still my favourite t-shirt.

4. Thrift stores and second hand sales, or new to you sales. Some of my favourite things came from a very cheap sale for an animal charity in Taiwan, and the money went to help feed dogs. Win win.

But beware of scams. I’ll always try and pick sales where I know where the money is going. When I lived in Berlin I bought some very cheap clothes from Humana without researching it first. I then found out that they’ve been involved in various exposes as a for-profit company, with unethically sourced clothes and the proceeds never actually reaching the needy. Read about that here.

5. Have the one item in, one item out rule. This will keep your backpack at the same size, or smaller, than when you started your trip.

Have you found a way to keep your wardrobe fresh, interesting and free while living out of a backpack? Let me know in the comments below.

 

*All these quotes and more can be found, along with their sources, here.

 

 

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A vegan yoga teacher training, reflections from an introvert

I have just finished my 200hr Yoga teacher training. I now know everything I need to start teaching Yoga, and I simultaneously know nothing.

I’ve been practicing asanas (the postures) for what must be getting on for 10 years. I struggled with chronic pain and fatigue all through my teenage years, and when I occasionally established a regular practice it helped me a lot. Of course, for anyone who knows what fatigue is like, when you’re out of a regular practice it’s almost impossible to re-establish it. I soon fell out of my practice, and in, and out. When I was 17, after my last school exam, I went for a private Yoga lesson and I learned the sun salutations. This stuck with me as a memorable sequence, and I continued to practice them and various other routines from the internet semi-regularly, until I became vegan in 2012. My energy shot up, my stamina shot up, my chronic pain lifted to a bearable level and getting out of bed finally became a reasonable request to make from my body. I started hitting the gym hard, and lost more that 20kgs/40lbs. Asanas and stretching became nothing more than a cool down. I briefly tried Bikram yoga, but it stank of expensive cult and I didn’t stay long.

privatepractice

My private practice at home before the training.

When I moved to Taiwan in 2014, the long days made me want something more easygoing than lifting weights. I turned back to Yoga, and joined a studio. I had bad experiences with two teachers and I tried to get out of the contract, but they wouldn’t let me. While this caused a lot of stress and loss of money that eventually led to me stopping the payments through my bank, I did have a few amazing teachers there. They opened me to the possibilities of different styles and routines, and I continued Yoga at smaller studios, and at home. Finally, more than a year later, this led me to Wise Living Yoga Academy, in Thailand.

The beautiful ashram and my beautiful roommate.

The beautiful ashram and my beautiful roommate.

I chose this course because it seemed far more authentic than a lot of the trainings. The website emphasises that it’s not just about asanas, but about philosophy, introversion, and the lifestyle. I myself can think of at least ten people I know who have 200hr trainings but feel anything but prepared to start teaching. WLYA, however, has a lot of testimonials saying how well it prepared them. On the course they made it clear that they are preparing us to go out into the world and keep teaching, and make us think of who we want to teach, and practice teaching each other.

The amazing breakfasts

The amazing breakfasts

The lifestyle, too, is a Yogic one. The price is all inclusive, which means that you’re kept onsite and all meals are provided. This ensures that students have enough time to get in a lot of study, and also keeps us, as much as possible without locking the gates, to the diet which is vegan (and very low oil, low protein, low fat), no alcohol, no caffeine, no sugar. Two of those four were no problem for me, but if you’ve read any of my other posts or taken even a quick glance at my instagram, you’ll know how much I enjoy a cup of coffee and some vegan cake. Like, really enjoy. To the level where there wasn’t a day that went by without me wanting a piece of chocolate cake.

I may have a problem, but that’s not what we’re talking about now.

Rainy day studying at the local cafe, Rimna Art Gallery

Rainy day studying at the local cafe, Rimna Art Gallery

What I didn’t expect, but was totally over the moon about it that they don’t just feed us vegan food (which is ah-ma-zing, like really amazing) but they also espouse a vegan diet and lifestyle and show films to teach us the benefits for our bodies, the animals and the planet. If you haven’t already watched them, go and see Cowspiracy and Gary Yourofsky’s ‘The Best Speech You’ll Ever Hear’ which are two of the ones we watched. Cowspiracy I hadn’t seen before, and it’s fantastic. I think I’m a little bit in love with the guy who made it. (In case you’re reading this, my email’s in the About Me section, I’m currently in Thailand but willing to travel, and…) oops, back on topic.

The place itself is totally beautiful. It’s nestled about an hour outside Chiang Mai, right in the middle of rice fields. Every Friday morning we took a break from asanas and went for brisk walks to different parts of the surrounding area. As a mad animal lover, I particularly enjoyed the day we acquired two dogs for the whole walk and half the day, until they took themselves home. The cats who have adopted the ashram weren’t as happy about this.

doggie

Fluffy dog love

As for the course itself, I really enjoyed it. It required a lot of discipline to get up every morning, and it got me into a morning routine that for the most part I’m managing to maintain a week later. My body still wakes me up between 6 and 7am, and tells me to go to bed far earlier than I used to. It deepened my practice, however, don’t expect to be putting your legs behind your ears on day one. The asanas they teach are the ones you’re expected to go out and teach, and so they’re basic ones. I think this surprised quite a few of us, although in hindsight it’s perfectly logical. I’ve seen so many pictures of horrendously complicated poses being done on Yoga teacher trainings though, that that’s kind of what I expected. This was something I really enjoyed – going back to basics, really deepening my understanding of the core poses I’d always dismissed as too easy, and finding new challenges in them has helped my body and my Yoga beyond belief. I’m now so much more conscious of what’s happening in my body, and whether I’m keeping my alignment.

Amazing lunches

Amazing lunches

And the sitting. Be prepared for a lot of sitting. Every day involves an hour and a half of Yoga Philosophy, an hour of breathing work (pranayamas) or kriyas, then in the afternoon three or four more hours of lifestyle talks, sutras, theory, and various other exercises. All of these usually involve sitting cross legged on the floor. Upright. My back hurts, and my knee hurts, but my back is now so much straighter than it used to be, I can’t quite believe it. I thought I was pretty straight to start with.

You’ve probably gathered from that there’s a lot of theory. In the last week there’s an exam for which you have to memorise a lot of sanskrit. Honestly, I don’t know how much of that Sanskrit is still in my brain a week later, but it was satisfying to be able to chant the sutras. It was one heck of a lot of study though, and here’s where things began to unstick in my meditation addled brain.

Meditation became harder. A lot harder. I was shuffling, sneezing, scratching, opening my eyes, repositioning, my mind was just not being reigned in. Until about week 2 I was making solid progression, and then it just… started… unravelling. We had a small group. Their smallest ever. There were five of us. I infamously don’t function too well in small groups. It has taken a lot of work over the years to get me out of my head, and the course catapulted me right back in there and into the anxiety and tiredness I left behind a few years ago. Everyone was struggling to some degree, because there was so much alone time and introspection. Jeenal and Daniel are both amazing, but quite understandably keep themselves to themselves between the classes and don’t offer much support unless it’s specifically requested. With larger groups there’s in-group support, but when there are only 5 it’s just not something that can be asked for too often. By the end of the course I had stopped sleeping well, my stomach became painful and I had (and still have, I’m working on it) the worst constipation I can ever remember (on a diet of what seems like pure fibre, c’mon universe, seriously?). I was also having panic attacks again. I just hadn’t expected this. I have come so far over the years, and to see myself going back into old patterns seemed like a weird sort of failure. Thinking like this naturally didn’t help. Jeez my brain can be mean to myself. Tensions started appearing in the group as everyone became more strained, and mealtimes became silent and serious. With all the learning and memorising we had to do, there was no time to deal with the emotions that were popping up left, right and centre.

I left after the course, certificate in hand. I went to a Dance Mandala Class. And I danced, and danced, and danced. My lungs started working again. I felt myself becoming human. I felt myself leaving the weird box of anxiety I had put myself into. I felt like me again.

Swimming and a walk to a temple nearby

Swimming and a walk to a temple nearby

One week later, I can appreciate the course far more. I’m not sure I miss it quite yet, although I do miss not being surrounded by backpackers, tourists and noisy vehicles. Their teachings are exceptionally valuable, in particular non-attachment, something I’m working on a lot in my life. Non-attachment to other people for approval, and not being affected by the moods and emotions of others. It has definitely helped me. I also understand the practice of Yoga far more, and its place in the world. I want to go out and teach, but maybe I’ll wait a little longer, and dance a little more between now and then.

If you’re interested in a Yoga Teacher Training, I cannot recommend this one enough. Just be aware that it isn’t a retreat, it’s disciplined, and to some extent an endurance challenge not physically, but mentally. It is beyond doubt the place to go if you want a thorough grounding in Yoga, just be prepared: it gets a little intense.

 

Almost all of these photos can be found on my instagram, find the follow button on the right.

If you’re interested in the course, find their website here.

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Nara Deerpark, Japan – Why it made me uncomfortable

Nara deerpark unsettled me. Actually, it did more than that, I was distressed and unhappy for the majority of the time and nearly left. The thing is, nobody warned me about the uncomfortable side of Nara. It wasn’t peaceful, and it wasn’t nature. At least, not until I finally found my way round the back of the temple where there’s a huge open green area with a herd of deer and no tourists.

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The peaceful part

So what was it that unsettled me? Well, for a start a lot of the male deer have their horns cut off. This prevents their natural behaviour in the wild, which is to rut in mating season. Then there was the attitude of the tourists towards the deer. If girlish shrieking and deer selfies are your thing, then you’re going to be in heaven. But it was clear that a lot of people are uncomfortable around animals and viewed them as something cute, a commodity. Then when the deer moved (usually as they were taking a selfie with them) the person would scream and run away to a safe distance. The deer aren’t aggressive, but if you get in their face then, yes, they’re probably going to make a sudden movement. To get away from you. I saw women come up to sleeping fawns and start clapping loudly in their face to wake them up and get a photo. Not cool. I hope her children do that to her. And of course, if you have food, you’re going to get a lot of attention from the deer. It seemed like everywhere I looked someone was running away screaming and scattering deer crackers everywhere, followed by a small herd of confused and hungry animals.

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“Run, dad, run!”

Another problem I had was the amount of trash generated by tourists that I then saw deer eating. I saw a woman throw a plastic candy bar wrapper to the ground, unconcerned that the deer she was walking past promptly moved in to eat it. Luckily a guy got there before me and removed it, but I’m pretty sure there are plenty of deer who aren’t that lucky. I saw an entire newspaper being eaten by a deer, and while paper in small quantities won’t harm an animal’s digestive system, the inks and the other chemicals that now go into papers will, in large quantities. I removed multiple other things from the mouths of deer, too, and if you’ve been to Japan you’ll know that they haven’t really caught on to the idea of trash cans. This left me wandering around with an armful of things-that-aren’t-deer-food for about an hour. I got some odd looks.

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What’s in the news today?

What I took away from Nara (apart from an armful of trash) was the question of why can’t we ever let nature be? Would it be too hard to put a fence up between the tourists and the deer, and keep a little separation? Looking from a distance, and taking photos? Rather than sawing off their antlers, disturbing the fawns just trying to suckle from their mothers, and filling their digestive tracts with plastic?

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People, people everywhere

Ever noticed that you only read about the positive side of places when you’re looking into visiting, and you have to dig a little deeper to uncover the real side? Maybe I was expecting some cute fluffy fairytale of happy animals all frolicking around, at least with the outdoor animals (cafes I was always cynical about). This is not to say don’t visit Nara – just be prepared, treat the deer respectfully, and take your trash away. Maybe bring some vegetables and sit around the back away from the tourists.

 

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Somewhere to avoid, however, is the animal cafes. Cat cafes, goat cafes, owl cafes, llama cafes, pig cafes… the list of animals that Japan puts in a small room with cushions, cakes and coffee is extensive, and expensive. An hour in a cat cafe will set you back around 1000jpy. I passed a goat cafe that has a miserable, lonely, unhealthy and unhappy goat sitting outside in a tiny cage. If you’re going to go to an animal cafe, choose a cat cafe that has rescue cats for adoption. That way you’re not supporting the purebread cat industry, and you’re not keeping owls awake when they’re trying to sleep.

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Unhappy goat

Remember, when visiting Japan, be responsible in your cute tourism.

Have you been to any animal cafes in Japan? Or to Nara? Or the animal islands? Think I’m over or under reacting? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below.

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Vegan Eats in Kyoto (and Hiroshima)

Kyoto. Kyoto, Kyoto, Kyoto. The end of my trip and the place that most frustrated me about Japan. It’s pretty, it’s full of temples, and it’s full of tourists (myself included, I know). I was so looking forwards to the vegan food in Kyoto, as everyone I talked to about it employed hyperboles such as “it’s a vegan paradise!” and “if I had to chose one city to be trapped in, I’d chose Kyoto!” (If you’re reading this and you know this was you, go and sit in the corner in shame.)

Therefore, this list will include an addendum of ‘places I wish I ate but they were always closed when I tried to go without explanation, or they’re not open on weekdays, or they only do lunch.’

Sensing my frustration yet? And while I’m at it, why for the love of all things tofu, do the cafes in Kyoto operate on bar hours? When I wake up in the morning, I want to go somewhere and work and drink coffee before, are you listening Kyoto? Before 11.30am.

Okay, rant over, let’s get on with the food. And don’t worry if I don’t seem that enthusiastic – I’m saving the best for last.

Cafe Matsuontoko

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Avocado Burger

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Chocolate brownie with ice cream of unknown flavour

This place I started off with cool feelings about, but it won a place in my affections because it’s pretty much always a safe bet for somewhere that’s open, it keeps hours I can get on board with, and the burgers aren’t extortionately expensive. But they’re a bit small (the whole burger will fit in the palm of my hand, my hands are pretty manly but not that big) and they don’t have that much in them: a patty, avocado if it’s the avo burger, maybe some lettuce and a sauce. Notice singular of everything. Maybe the UK spoiled me, but I like my burgers to be bursting with flavour and huge. The taste is okay, I quite liked the avocado burger and the teriyaki burger which are the two I tried, but they’re fast foody and nothing to write home about. The cafe itself is dark and gloomy with slightly odd seating, but some people like it.

The brownie is pretty good, the cream that comes with it is good too. Although right now, I’m writing this from a month long live-in yoga course which is making me detox from sugar and, by extension, cake. So everything cake like seems excellent right now.

A burger with fries will cost under 1000jpy, and the desserts are around 650. These burgers seem to be very subjective – opinions range from meh to delicious – so don’t take my word for it, go and try them if you want something a little indulgent and comfort foody.

One last anecdote: the staff may seem a little unfriendly at first, but one night I ate there alone, tried to pay and then found that I’d left my purse at home. They had no problem at all about me saying that I was going to go away and come back.

Do or don’t? Do

Food: 3.5/5

Atmosphere: 3/5

Value: 4/5

Happy Cow

Morpho Cafe

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fish burger

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unexciting pizza

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chocolate cake

I don’t know why or how, but for some reason I seemed to be on a grand burger adventure in Japan (and yet I didn’t eat any vegan sushi, because whenever I tried places were closed! So strange). On Happy Cow the fish burger is highly recommended, so I went with the crowd and went for that. My friend had the corn and potato pizza, which was unexciting to say the least. The burger reminded me of the fast food burgers I used to eat in Berlin: the right amount of grease, the right amount of mustard… it was pretty tasty and not too expensive. We asked the man does it need an extra side of hand cut fries, he said no, we said “how many does it come with?” and he replied oh, six or seven. We ordered a side.
The cake afterwards was good, but it was shaped like it should have had a gooey chocolate centre and it didn’t, instead it was a little dry.

Do or don’t? Do

Food: 3.5/5

Atmosphere: 3/5

Value: 4/5

Happy Cow

Falafel Garden 

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Baba Ganoush and Falafel pittas

This place is omni, not vegan, but whatever is vegan is clearly labelled on the menu. If it’s not labelled as vegan, it’s not vegan so don’t be caught out by the fact that some of the desserts look like they should be vegan – they aren’t. I kept trying to get falafel in Tokyo (read about that here) but it was always closed, so it was amazing to finally get my fix after over a year in Asia. The owner is Israeli and has been making falafel in Japan for 20 or so years, and his falafel is amazing – definitely some of the best I’ve had. Generous potions, lots of sauce, moist, full of flavour… I went back here three times because like Cafe Matsuontoko, they’re a safe bet for when other places are closed. They also do an excellent Baba Ganoush. A medium is 680jpy, and a plate of two different ones is a little over 1000 if you’re hungry. You’ll pay a lot less in Israel or Berlin, but in Japan it’s a cheap meal.

Do or don’t? Do if you don’t mind them also serving animal products.

Food: 4.5/5

Atmosphere: 3.5/5

Value: 4/5

Happy Cow

Cosy Cafe at Tamisa Yoga

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Quiche and some pretty tasty soup

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cake and chai

You’ll never guess what I’m about to say – I tried to go here twice before I managed, and both times they were shut. Argh! Was it worth it when I managed? I’m not really sure. It was nice but unmemorable. The quiche was good, the salad was good, but for what it was and the amount of food it was pretty expensive. I had a cake and a coffee after my dinner and it was pretty good, but I would have liked some sauce on my cake. Or something to make it a little more moist. However, the have a (I think raw) mango cheesecake that was always sold out when I was there, and it looks delicious. I had a chai tea latte that was good, but the one I had in Tokyo was a little better. All in all, a little average. The location is nice, it’s part of a yoga studio and they sell health food store things too. The staff were very friendly, and one commented on my vegan t-shirt (hurrah!).

Do or don’t? Maybe I’d go for coffee and cake, but not for lunch.

Food: 3.5/5

Atmosphere: 4/5

Value: 3/5

Happy Cow

Vegans Cafe

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The place itself is full of things about veganism

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Pizza!!!

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Vegan soft serve, but no muffins on top like the Sunday

BY FAR the best in Kyoto, people aren’t exaggerating when they say that this is somewhere you have to go. I tried twice to go here and it wasn’t until the third time that I finally managed. It was worth it, I just wish I’d been able to go a couple more times and experience the full magnificence of their Ice Cream Sunday with muffin crumbled all over it, I also didn’t get to try their cake. I ordered one of their pizzas (creamy vegetable) with a thin crust (recommended), and it was so so good I would even compare it to Sfizy Veg in Berlin, which still holds the title of best vegan pizza I’ve had (except my own that I would make in Glasgow, hem hem) but only just.

And now the catch. They’re only open 11.30-16.30, and they’re closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Sometimes they’re closed at other times, too, just for fun. The pizza is about 2000, but it will fill you up to bursting point and is worth it.

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Inari Shrine – just round the corner

Do or don’t? If you only eat at one place in Kyoto, go here. You can combine it with a trip to the Inari shrine, as it’s nearby (the top rated tourist attraction in Japan).

Food: 4.8/5

Atmosphere: 4.5/5

Value: 4.5/5

Happy Cow

Hiroshima – bonus city

Art Elk Cafe

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The Bomb Dome – round the corner from Art Elk

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Strings of origami cranes

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The Bomb Domb

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Udon Noodles

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Chocolate cake

There aren’t any vegetarian or vegan places in Hiroshima, but there are a few vegan friendly places with vegan cake. I went to Art Elk Cafe, which has a small menu just for vegans including udon noodles, a tofu meal set, cake and coffee with soy milk. The owner is very friendly and speaks good English – very rare in Japan – and she’s knowledgeable about vegans. The cake was soft and chocolatey, and came with fresh fruit scattered around the plate.

Do or don’t? Do

Food: 4/5

Atmosphere: 4/5

Value: 4/5

Happy Cow

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